After cookies and shopping we visited
Arbanassi just up the hill. This town was
situated in a mountain pass that controlled the
trade routes going from Asia Minor to the Balkan
Mountains of Bulgaria. It is a very, very old
town.. as are a lot of places around here. It
was a merchant town and we visited one of the
most prominent ones of its time.
The real highlight though was a visit to their
Nativity Church whose interior was painted with
at least 200 scenes from the bible. It is again
an Eastern Orthodox Church, only this one had
makeshift chairs attached to the walls. They
were purposely not comfortable... just a very
narrow seat that you kind of had to lean upon,
but at least you didn't have to stand
unsupported during the hours of the service. The
frescos were quite amazing and original. They
had been cleaned (except a very small area in
each room to show the people how black the
burning candles made the walls). In the churches
here today candles are lit outside in two areas,
one for living people and one for the dead. The
frescos told the story since most of the people
were illiterate in those days. Men and women
prayed in separate rooms. The frescos in the
men's area focused on Jesus, whereas the
pictures in the women's room paid homage to Mary
and the women saints.
While we were there we were treated with a
twenty minute concert by four priests. They sang
a cappella chants so beautifully it gave me
chills. They sang in the early language of the
church. It was so great that Michael and I
bought the CD with the funds going toward
maintaining the church as a museum. The lady who
explained about the church had wonderful English
and made it all so understandable.
Driving into
the little village of Arbanassi:



Entrance to the church:
Since this was an Orthodox
Church it had to look different from the outside
as the Turks who were in power during the early
days of this village would not allow arched
ceilings or to be higher than a man
sitting on a horse. That way the soldiers
parading around could keep tabs on the people.
From the inside however you can see arches where
as the roof is not arched. Remember that most
people could not read so the walls and ceiling
were covered with pictures that told the bible
stories or of the saints they learned about.
There is a section for men and a section for
women...and actually the women's side was the
prettiest! Naturally!

<<< Another
original painting from inside the church.




This is the group of priests who treated us by
performing some beautiful chants.
Crocheted lace
tablecloths sold by some of the ladies who live in
Arbanassi:
