Day Sixteen:   ... On the way to Tuscany

We have had breakfast and at in the bus saying "good-bye to Sorrento".    I will be writing this as we go  along until my battery runs out....there are no plugs for charging  as there were in our busses in England, Scotland, and Wales .

We pass to see Naples are at the left.  Elena tells us about Maples and of course the northern part (where the best view was, and  is where the painting I sold was painted).  Now, many rich soccer players live there. 

We are now passing olive groves and Elena tells us there is a big controversy with them because of the EU.  When they joined, everyone signed a contract that allowed people to go across the border with no check of passports.  So can products be moved across as well.  Alora (what the Italians say for "Well, OK", or "ah", before they talk... as a pause), then the big, big, olive oil companies started importing olives or oil from other countries... even Morocco, where they could import olives cheap and then the companies would sell extra-virgin olive oil as "made in Italy" and sold for cheaper.  This was unfair to the other olive companies and they complained that the olives should be grown in Italy.

Now we are in Montecassino.  Next, we visit a  Benedict Abby  who believe in " Ora and labora"...pray and work. They are either praying or working,  but also climbing. The Abby is way up the hill.  The monks produce wine, grappa, honey and olive oil to sell. On the way we see a medieval castle, but the pictures don't turn out because the rain has collected on the window.  We have been so lucky with the weather ....only rain on the bus.  Benedict and his twin sister  Scolastica were able to meet here only once a year. She is always painted or sculpted with a dove in her hand.  We saw both. I understand why they didn't have so many visits.  It is a LONG way up the hill.  Even from the bus parking lot, I thought I would keel over before getting to the Abby!      The Abby here was bombed by US as they believed the Germans were there.  Only civilians were here as the Germans were hiding in the bushes.  The place was full of art. But some was saved as was the ceiling. Private  contributions helped to restore ...except USA did very little for this restoration.

We stopped at a place half way to where we are staying and I slept until we reached Umbria.  How beautiful this area is .....even in the rain!  We saw Orvieto up on the hill and within thirty minutes we were in Chianciano  .  This town is wonderful and our hotel is fit for the stars.  We have a big Jacuzzi for two and Fishers have one for at least four, maybe five. We are so glad as they have taken so many trips with a Grand Circle and should have the best when it is possible!  It is only fair.

Dinner tonight was the best we've had. We started with a buffet of cold veggies...cooked but delicious.  There were so many: greens with veggies to put on it.

The tomatoes were as good as Michael's at home.  I wish I'd known the cannoli beans were warm as they were delicious but I had already filled my plate with veggies.  The only disappointment was fennel. They had two kinds and I didn't care for either.  Then came bucatini like Carlo and Sylvia had made us...yum.  By then I was full but the roasted chicken and fresh cooked spinach was so good I ate it all.  Dessert was like an apple cream cake, good end to a great dinner at the hotel. 

We all waddled away to play a game of 5 crowns where Michael creamed us.  Tomorrow night we will play for money!  A euro to join and winner gets the pot.  Another way to make the game even more cutthroat!

I have to wake up at 6:30 tomorrow to send Michael off to mass.  It is right up the hill and four more travelers are joining him.

Until tomorrow....ciao!   Grove.

Day Seventeen:  ...Tuscany at Chianciano

Today we left late so people could rest from our long ride yesterday. Michael had tried again to go to mass here in Chianciano which was supposed to be at 8:00, but when he got there it was at 9 or 6.  We were leaving at 9 so he said he'd go at 6. 

We were to go to the Etruscan Museum as it was  closed we went instead to a medieval town called Pienza.  During medieval time it had another name but when a guy whose family was from there was made Pope, he decided to upgrade it a bit to look more  Renaissance and changed its name to Pienza.  This  city is made after the plan of one of Bernardo Rossellino who was an early 25th century sculptor. 

This area is famous for making pecorino cheese like we had at Carlo and Sylvia's house.  Elena's favorite ice cream is in a place in Pienza that makes pecorino cheese-flavored ice cream. She  promised to buy us an ice cream and of course encouraged us to try that cheese flavor.  Now, pecorino cheese is quite similar to Parmesan and nobody was jazzed to do it.  How disappointed she was when she found there was no pecorino ice cream.  The man who brings the sheep's milk for it did not have enough milk that morning!  I had coconut and chocolate chip but not enough chips for me. 

She showed us how the town was laid out and showed how we could walk to see an awesome view of wonderful Tuscany from the top of this hill.  It would have been fabulous but it was hazy.

She gave us an hour to explore and shop.  There. were clothes shops, toy shops, spices, dried mushrooms,pasta packages and the like in shops.  There was a museum and of course a church,  Michael tried again to get his mass time and he attended until the homily which was in Italian and decided to go back later.  Poor guy, just as it was time for the communion, it was time to go. 

From Pienza we traveled to a farm that makes pecorino cheese.  The guides all say the owner reminds them of a short George Clooney and we all agreed.  He taught us how 9 kinds of his Pecorino cheese is made.  The youngest is only aged one month.  The next is four months but the milk is not pasteurized first.  The third is aged four months but is pasteurized.  The next cheese he covers with tomato sauce and ages it 12 months, covering it with tomato sauce each month.  One has truffles in it; one has chili and another is wrapped in hay.  One is wrapped in walnut leaves and the last was stored in a wine barrel. 

Our next adventure was to follow him to a building for our tasting lunch.  The tables were filled with platters of salami, cotta, and Prosciutto,  bowls of green salad with fresh grown tomatoes as good as Michael's, mozzarella cheese and tomato, and baskets of bread with cold pressed olive oil and balsamic.  There were papers naming each cheese (all nine) to rate at each place setting.  I liked them all but would prefer some of the stronger ones grated on a cream pasta.  There was water and wine and a red cup for a surprise later.  After we'd eaten all the cheese, meats, salads and bread we could muster he brought out more bread for "dessert". He then brought out cold fresh ricotta cheese and sugar.  He taught us to spread it on the bread then sprinkle sugar on it.  It was ok but I liked to repeat it mixed with some sugar as well.

We were so full from the tasting I wasn't even hungry when it came time for dinner that night.  We had all decided to go up to the old Chianciano walled city for dinner... most did OK but our dinner was a disappointment. My beef had nothing with it on the plate but salt. At least two spoonfuls covering it.  I could not get the salt taste off even after scraping the rock salt off.  Janet ordered grilled veggies and got a plate of boiled Swiss  chard. 

We paid early since when we finished our dinner and walked up the hill to have  gelato.  I had coconut and dark chocolate which was not bitter and the best  I've ever had. 

Back to the hotel we went and more cards!  Wanda won the big money! 

Grove

Day Eighteen:  ...Etruscans and cheese 

This morning our first stop  was at the Etruscan Museum here in Chianciano.  I felt it was the best museum I have ever visited.  Although the Orsay Museum has fabulous stuff, this had older stuff. It was beautifully arranged in a beautiful building, We were the only ones in the museum at the time, it had three floors but was not too large or too small and furthermore it was all done with volunteers. Everything was beautifully organized.  There were wonderful videos in Italian with English subtitles.  It even had a nice small gift shop, only with copies of things we saw there.  I bought Michael an Etruscan horse and for me new earrings... scarabs.

Our next stop was another walled medieval city called... Cortona (1549). It was a long way  up to the center which looked just like a medievil town... no Pope to remodel.  I knew I'd be out of air if I tried to walk it and since Grand Circle paid for a taxi for any one  who wished, I took them up on it.  It was a "Mamma Mia ride"!   The center was really cute... there were some little shops, but mostly we walked out for a good photo of the Valdichiana Plain and Lake Trasimeno below.

Michael went on to the ramp up and kept walking until his phone said he had walked the equivalent of 47 floors, 3 miles and 8,128 steps!  At the end he was high on the mountain to the church of St. Margarita whose embalmed body is under the altar in a glass case.  You could actually see her and for the hundreds of years she has been there she doesn't look that bad.  Her skin looks pretty good .....not all shrunken ..Botox?

Elena had us get food for a picnic so I bought two #5 sandwich at the grocery/deli and even ordered in Italian!  I also bought chips, but Elena promised she would bring the rest. 

The funny thing that happens is that after Michael had walked those miles and climbed up the hill he had really been a sweaty breathless guy ( I would have died along the way), he worried about how long it would take him, and how uncomfortable he would be now that he had to walk down to the meeting place.  On the contrary he had a big surprise when he looked over to the side and there was Pepe, our bus driver with the bus.  He had driven up there to park while we were at the center.  He was so glad and hitched a ride down the hill to our meeting place.  Whew!

Now it was time for our picnic.  We had it at the area around the church that Michael had walked to!  She had potato chips, olives, grapes, drinks, bacon chips (chicharones), cakes and cookies.  She also provided cups, plates and napkins!  It was a great picnic!  We all got to check out "Michael's hike church" and St. Margarita. 

We came back to the hotel to rest and freshen up for dinner.  That was a very special trip to a previous monastery they had  decorated so well.    They served us cold grilled veggies, pasta, little meat loaves with oven baked potatoes, dessert of biscotti that we dunked in their dessert wine. and LOTS of red, white or rose wine from their wineries. 

Janet won the money in the Five Crowns game!

Nuff said,   Ciao!  Grove

Day Nineteen:...Moving Dayton Montecatini

Today was a long one.  Other than bathroom breaks, we stopped in the walled city of Sienna. 

The Walled City Of Sienna

This is the place where 14 years ago Kathy, Pole, Michael and I almost missed the last train to Florence. 

Beer Drinkers... Remembering Many Years Ago Whn Michael And Pole Wouldn't Leave To Find The Train

We had a great tour this time and learned so much.  There are 17 contrade or neighborhoods that have made up the city since the 1400's.  Each has a flag with the animal associated with that group.  When children go to school they are always asked their name and then their "contrade".  They keep that flag and character of where they were born.  A SNAIL  could marry a GOOSE, but if they had a child while living in the TORTOISE contrade the baby would be TORTOISE.  It is quite remarkable as many have mascots not even in this continent...  like giraffe and hippo.  The races around the square are held every August and October.  The horses are brought to the square and ten neighborhood flags are drawn to race.   The horse is also drawn for the rider just four days before the race.  The neighborhood pays for the rider and horse and the jockey rides bareback. The day starts at noon with food and parades and people stake their places out in the middle of the track.  Once they enter that area they must stay there until the race is over which doesn't start until seven.  They can't even leave to use restrooms!  There are blackboards with frames at each neighborhood and there are two picture frames that have photos of the two winners each year.  The jockey who wins gets a lot of money, however if his horse wins but has bucked him off the jockey gets nothing. The ten that race in August allow the other seven contrada to race in October and three are drawn again to fill out the ten.  The August winner does not ride in October. Last year the winners were the goose and the she-wolf.  When a baby is born the name and a blue or pink ribbon is put on the neighborhood board . This year there will be three races as one will be in honor of the one hundredth anniversary of the end if WWI.

One of the real highlights was a visit to the Duomo... what a marvelous jewel!!  My favorite!  It is a bit glitzy outside... sort of guiding the lily, but still quite remarkable.  The exterior is Romanesque at the bottom and Gothic at the top.  The interior has black and white stripes on the columns reminiscent of mosques.  The really neat thing however is that from August to November they uncover the floor of the cathedral and we got to see them.  During this time they do not have services in the cathedral.  The amazing mosaic and inlaid marble floors tell stories from the bible, or include religious figures.  They are quite remarkable and when I get home I'll send lots of pictures as we took many.  There are also two Michelangelo statues, one metal one of Donatello's, and many pictures in one of the rooms by Rafael.  Although each picture portrays a story from the bible, Rafael has painted himself somewhere in each picture...it was a "where's Waldo" adventure.

The Great Cathedral Siena Duomo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvkPffw5f98

Painted Walls, Statuary, And The Amazing Inlaid Marble Floors In The Cathedral Sienna Duomo.
In The Center Can Be Seen Romulus And Remus Being Suckled By The She-Wolf.

The pulpit had been totally cleaned at a phenomenal price.  They were supposed to move it to another place not so much in the middle but the message didn't get to the right people so it is back in the middle of the church.

At one time hundreds of years ago they were going to build another entry to the side that would be bigger than the one  in Florence, their rival, but the plague came and they not only lost their money it wiped out most of the inhabitants.  Now the unfinished entry is a UNESCO memorial. And will not be finished.

We had a wonderful included lunch... the best one Grand Circle has included... great green salad, yummy gnocchi with basil and cream sauce, wine, water, bread and panicotta for dessert with mixed berries.  It all tasted terrific!

We had three hours to explore on our own and by the time we got to the bus my legs and feet were throbbing and swollen and I was not a happy camper! I could have ridden the taxi for a mere 2.5 euros but Michael encouraged me to go with him and then proceeded to leave me. Needless to say the two times I left Sienna in my life I was annoyed with my husband!

I managed to sleep for a bit  and when we got to Montecatin I soaked my feet in cold water in the bidet and wrapped cold towels around my legs.  By dinner time I was able to walk with Michael to share a pizza and a Coke.  We got ripped off... others paid 6 euro for their pizza but ours was 20.5 euro!  Bummer!

More cards then bedtime and sending and writing in my journal.

Night! Night!   Grove

Our morning was first to explore Montecatini.  This was a hopping place in the early 1900's with the rich and famous in this town for the spas, the waters, and being wined and dined, gambling in the casinos and being entertained in the meanwhile.  We toured around finding that some of the spas are no longer open and that there are hotels and restaurants and fancy theaters are closed ....something we saw at our last town as well.  I don't understand why more tour groups don't come here as it is a great city.  We do have two groups in our hotel which is a great hotel.  We have a great room with a big bath, a hall and a sitting room that is quite large....two televisions and plenty of places to play cards.  Last night we found a great out-of-the-way to play our games without bothering anyone.

We walked along the main road to the beautiful little square.  Folks were here last night and said children were riding their skateboards and it seemed totally safe and lovely.  We then visited a place where folks go to partake of the mineral waters here.  They say there are four kinds ....one especially good for ones liver and the other three focusing on digestion. It is a beautiful building with painting and statuary and 500 toilets....I guess the water works that way.  People were there drinking the water but had to have a doctor's prescription to get waters. 

We hung around for free time and had a chance to use one of those 500 thrones before getting to the bus.  They were shooting a Bollywood movie in front of the early 1900 spa buildings so we skirted the action and the bus took us around the parks...which are many and lovely to catch the 100 year old  funicular to what is called Alta Montecatini.  There we had a picnic of focaccia, cow cheese and procuitto.

The View From The Top Of The Mountain

Right away folks were looking around for a place to sit down and people-watch and eat more.  I was full from the picnic snack but did eat a piece of Michael's pizza, Carol had pasta and Cindy a sandwich that looked to me like a huge taco.  I opted mostly for a Coke Zero.  There were few little shops up there and a few places to eat, two churches and a great lookout place to see the city/town below.  We walked down a bit to miss the bus.

From there we went back to the hotel to rest or spend free time shopping down in the center.  I chose the first and wrote Day 15  and sent it.  I put up my feet to rest... 3+ miles walking this day.  I knew we would be going to a wine tasting and dinner and party in Montecarlo (not the big gambling one).

The farm we went to was quite amazing. They are doing a bang up business. Entertaining tourists with talks of their wine and olive oil and following it up with a big barbecue dinner.  The local tour gal was quite funny and she took great joy in putting down the enemies in Florence and Pisa. She is mad that the big wineries are getting grapes cheap from Morocco and passing the wine off as Italian!

She told us how they make their cold press olive oil which she of course bragged as the best and a deal at twice the cost of others.  It is a small farm operation and they feel they are making the best products ever whether wine or olive oil or even eating olives.  They cure their olives with just salt and water and changing it every day.  The lady had a fit when she heard we use lye to cut the bitter.  Their olives they served were good, but super small and dark red.  There is not a way we could cure 16 thousand ton of olives that way... especially since our olives were so large.  I still like Einar and Uncle Henry's olives best!

Dinner was three kinds of white wines and three kinds of red wines with bread, olives, salamis and prosciutto, cheese, olive oil, and bruschettas... one with tomatoes and one with chicken liver pate.

Dinner was french fries with three kinds of barbequed meats: sausages, ribs, and chicken.  All was delicious except dessert which was tiramisu ... coffee ugh!  I gave mine to Michael and he loved it.  They also served a sweet wine....none for me thank you.

By the time dinner was over we had consumed many bottles of wine. Then the music started and we danced with all the other folks there... many much younger.   Folks got rowdy and laughing but all were really nice... not obnoxious!  Everyone seemed surprised that we knew how to dance.  I told them we danced better with no gravel, no sandals and a lot less wine.  When Sweet Caroline came on we were all singing!  Elena had never heard that song but liked it.  When it was time to go home we climbed to the bus.  We were all singing to the music and our bus driver for the night, Salvadore, starts making the lights flash on and off inside the bus like a strobe and kept us singing most of the way.  He didn't stop the flashing and we didn't stop the clapping and singing with some dancing in the aisle until we got on the main road back home.  I am sure the carabiniere would have not approved.  I'm sure the folks there didn't expect such wildness from all us seniors. 

A lady on the dance floor hit on Michael saying, " You're cute!  Where are going next?" He said, " To my bus!"  She asked him where he was staying and he told her he thought it started with an M!  Of course most of the little towns around there start that way.  Well, so much for worrying some gal is going to pick him up!

Everyone had a really good time, and Ellen who was on her first trip out of  USA at 75 said she had never laughed so much in her life and when they watched her videos back at the room they laughed more!  She is traveling with her sister who insisted she come on this trip.

It's been a beautiful day and so much fun, but we are beat tired so.....

Bona noche,   Grove