Journal #8 (10/9)... Welcome To Yom Kipper

 

First thing that tells me this day is not ordinary.  Breakfast.....Nothing hot. No toaster or coffee maker and only one elevator that isn't slow and goes from one floor to another without touching button.  Take a look our weird breakfast!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left: My breakfast. Right: Michael's breakfast, but they had kept the water hot so the coffee was instant.

 

I know we saw a difference last evening when Yon Kipper entered, but as the most holy day it lasts until the sun goes down.  The biggest thing we noticed was NO TRAFFIC,.    I walked down the middle of the road sometimes and the kids use this once a year to zoom down the hills in the deserted streets on their bikes.    Usually this road is bustling with busses, trucks and many cars .  The kids would wave at us as they zoomed by.  This was the day that we visited the old city by foot and luckily Annie knew an Arab man who was willing to pick us up off the beaten path and take us up and down hills to the Damascus door.  We had to walk back and though only a part of it was up hill I don't think I could make it both ways and still do as much walking in the city.  

The first thing I noticed besides no traffic were the Orthodox Jews with their white and blue shawls and many tassels hanging beneath their clothing all walking to the center.  It is one of those 600 + commandments that they must go there on holy days.  The next thing I noticed were the ancient doors to the city.

They are the originals!  The metal protected the wood below except on the bottom of one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Metal over this door has let the wood show over the hundreds of years.

 

 

 

The city is divided into areas: Jewish , Armenian, Muslim and Christian, but there is a small Coptic area and a tiny Syriac where the Syriac Orothodox have a place that was burned.  They wanted to remodel it but the four main parts in the city must agree and the Armenians say no.   The Syriac has a burnt wooden altar but it was where where a burial cave was discovered which is now to believe the resting place of Joseph  of Arimathea.  Michael climbed down in it of course.

 

picture Oct 9/3

 

As we walked along in the city there were still quite a few stalls that were open.  They are owned and operated by Christians, Muslims , or non-practicing Jews.  A handsome young man asked if we would take his picture and show him by his stall and I did.  The young people and of course the children are all so very adorable/handsome.  (The Jews have many children and close together. ). We went by a school that was getting out and ALL the children were just beautiful!!  We walked along toward the holy places while I snapped photos along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is still a big army presence. So Cute!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baklava...  yum! I resisted!

 

Because of the holiday, and the time of day it was not crowded, but later when all the tourist groups arrived that was not the case.  We saw some photo moments on our way to the more holy sights.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our goal was to arrive at Via Doloroso......the path in the old city Christ would have taken to get out of the city walls as he carried his cross of Calvary.  It was very emotional.  I know Michael takes the " stations of the cross" many times in his life but this was an emotional one even for me.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right: Ceiling in next little room Check out the crown of thorns in the veil sing and nails and thorns around the light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left: Armenian Quarter. First to accept Christianity   Right: Armenian Cross

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left: Special paintings in the adjacent room

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above: At fifth station Christ had to put his hand on this rock to steady himself. People touch it with their hand. This is called the Jesus Stone.

 

 

Above: At 6th station the chiseled letters talk about what happened here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above: Sixth Station

 

 

 

Above: 7th station. Right: Walking to 8th station

 

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We had lunch at the top of a building overlooking the old city.  It can be seen from the drone photo Michael  has that he bought here from a vendor at the lookout for ten bucks and has been wonderful to explain when I can't remember what Annie told us.  We had yummy chicken and veggies in a pita; other chose the same on a plate.  My battery in my camera was dying  and Michael took a picture with the red camera, but it was not email.

After lunch Annie gave us an hour to check out the bazaar.  I haggled for a dress until I realized he was a shyster and bought some ornaments for my friends of live wood and haggled successfully with another guy!  I was glad to help out as the money would help the olive wood artists in the town.

Then it was time to walk home, first out of the old town then through a l very cool walkway/mall with high-end stores on each side...all closed.  It was out of the sun and there were fabulous sculptures all along the way.  I would have liked to have any but a few were favorites.... one would I be able to afford.  It was like a museum.  Sadly my very favorites he did not choose to take on his phone and my battery died after only one, the beautiful menorah.

 

I found more of the same sculptures at the hospital. Here are a few favorites.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We came back to the hotel and I showered and rested.  I thought I'd pass on dinner as I wasn't very hungry  but in the end Michael and I walked to a great pizza/pasta place down at the train station.  It was fun watching people go buy and people were coming out on the street now that Yom Kipper was finally over.

Tomorrow we don't meet up with Annie until 11:00.  I'll probably wake up at 5:00!

I have bags of clothes packed up for the laundry guy to take.  Two big bags stuffed with dirty clothes for 100 shekels. ( about $28 to have all of it washed , dried, and folded and ready for us tomorrow evening)

Ready for another night of sleep.

Love, Grovey

 

 

Church of the Holy Sepluchre                                                                                               Left: People stand in line to reach down and touch the Jesus rock. Right and below: Mosaic that tell the story.                   Michael kisses the stone that was found and believed to be the stone Jesus was laid upon Pizza with my honey

 

 

 Journal #9 (10/10)... Old City Walls... and Tunnels 

As a surprise, feeling bad that all these holidays have altered our trip Annie took us to the Hadassah Medical Center a huge 1000+ bed hospital that will treat people of all religions and in this hospital are the twelve windows Marc Chagall made depicting the twelve tribes of Jerusalem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lady (above) first gave us a great talk about the history of the hospital.  It seems that a  woman came from the US (Right) and was appalled at the lack of care the Israelis were getting.  She went back and said that something should be done.  As a nurse she made it happen.  First she decided EVERYONE, NO MATTER WHO MUST BE. CARED FOR....FREE.   She and her nurse friends brought  a milk pasteurizer that could be carried by a donkey and the nurses went to EVERY house where there were children to pasteurize their milk.  The families got to appreciate, know and trust this woman and her nurses.  As the story got out people began to donate to the hospital and it began to grow.  It is now immense.  We walked through the actual hospital with patients in the halls on IVs etc. until we reached the room with the windows.  Chagall fashioned these windows above the altar of a synagogue with pews on all four sides in 1962.  Since we couldn't move the windows we moved after learning about each tribe named after each son of Jacob.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First there was REUBEN INSPIRED By "you are. my first born, my might, the first sign of strength, excelling in honor, excelling in power.  turbulent as the waters , you will no longer excel.....Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Second SIMEON.  he and Levi are  favorite brothers....Simeon swords are weapons of violence...cursed be their anger, so fierce and their fury so cruel"   ...Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Third is Levi. .....He watched over your word and guarded  your covenant.  he teaches your precepts to Jacob and your law to Israel.  Deuteronomy 33. He is the flip side of his brother Simeon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fourth JUDAH....your brothers will praise you; your hand will be on the neck of your enemies; your father's sons will bow down to you.  you are a lion's cub"...Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifth is ZEBULON ...will live by the seashore and become a haven for ships.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sixth is ISSACHAR...A  rawboned donkey lying down among the sheep pens, when he sees how good is his resting place and how pleasant is his land, he will bend his shoulder to the burden and submit to forced labor".    Genesis 49

All was well and good when Chagall was first asked to design the windows.  He agreed saying," I have been waiting my whole life to be asked to serve the Jewish People"

HOWEVER......in the 1967 war  the hospital was bombed and the 4,5, and 6th windows only.  The people were devastated but Chagall said, you work on restoring the hospital. Do not worry, just leave the windows to me!  Then he went along restoring those three windows.  ONLY HE  MADE A SMALL CHANGE.....in Issachar's window in the purple box at the bottom just off the donkey's nose he put a small white bullet hole, signifying the attack on the synagogue.

 

Seventh is DAN..... will provide justice for his people as one of the tribes of Israel.  Dan will be a snake by the roadside , a viper along the path along that bites the horses' heels so that the rider tumbles backward .  Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eighth is GAD.....will be attacked by a band of raiders, but he will attack them at their heels.  .......Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ninth is ASHER...food will be rich, he will provide delicacies fit for a king....Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tenth is NAPHTALI...A Dow set free that bears beautiful fawns. Genesis 49.  Naphtali is abounding with the favor of the Lord and is full of his blessing". ....Deuteronomy 33

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we skip to Twelfth BENJAMIN.... a ravenous wolf; in the morning he devours the prey, in the evening he divides his plunder."     Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the middle of the two directly over the front of the synagogue and hanging above a beautiful textile is JOSEPH ....A fruitful vine , a fruitful vine near a spring whose branches climb over a wall...because of the Almighty, who blesses you with blessings of the skies above, blessing of the deep springs below"....... Genesis 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

The altar in the middle of the room is covered with a beautiful textile fashioned by the same person who fashioned the hanging.  The colors are natural and do not fight with the bright colors of Chagall's windows.  The to, covered by glass is set at a slight angle purposely.  When you look down into the glass beyond the textile you see the beautiful reflections of the windows no matter where you stand.  It was quite amazing.  I find Marc Chagall a bit wired....you know , houses and goats floating around, but the colors and composition are quite amazing.  It was quite a long bus ride out to see those and I appreciate so much Annie's gift to us

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Left: The Center Alter. The other images are the  reflection of the windows above the alter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we went to what the Israeli believe to be where King David built his palace.  The Arabs aren't very happy about it as it was previously on their land and just across the ravine of all their homes.   When " many bullies??" were found  which were the coin like things that sealed parchment scrolls.  Naturally the fire destroyed the scrolls but would strengthen the stone bullie.  It makes sense that it would be a good place for such a palace where David could look out at the homes below.  perhaps that was how he found Bathsheba, sunbathing on her balcony and in time bore Sampson. 

Then  and only then did we visit the western wall.  Honestly all the days are just melting together.  Without my journal I wouldn't remember squat!

Today we didn't start until 10:00 but went late with 3.5 miles ( day before was 3.8!  We caught our driver, Israel who we call Perrin, for a comfortable....ok still bumpy ride.  We first ate a wonderful bread made in a ring.....so much better than bagels.  And we dipped it in dried spices.

From there we headed walking toward the western wall also called the wailing wall,   but there was so much to see on the way.  Sadly my phone was almost with a dead battery, all pictures are on Michael's  camera.

 

• Being at the wall was very interesting.  The wall is the closest it can get to the most holy place for all three religions without going in the tunnels.  It is a very small part of the entire  wall as the rest is covered or underground.  Of that little part, two thirds is only for men, and of course the other third is for the women.  Surprisingly enough the women's side had women three layers the deep waiting to kiss, touch or pray at the wall.  With rows upon rows to be near until they have another turn. There were a relative few on the men's side.  You will see that  in the photo and know what a  load of crap it is.  Women have protested but it did no good or they were arrested.  I guess we should feel lucky 9that women got to do it all.  It had taken lots of walking and stairs to get there and all of us women were bound and determined to get our turn.  The men  were given a little ramekin on their heads and sashayed up to put their paper in the cracks of the wall.  Where we were there were  not many cracks and they were all full....in fact many notes fell out and were at our feet, there on the floor in many, many languages.    We had all written hopes, thanks, or wishes to stick in the wall but where I was there wasn't hardly a crack.  I had mine very tiny but some women had huge pieces of paper that folded much too large for a crack.  These are cleared out just before Rosh Hoshashana    but still there were already thousands because of the many hoilidays we just had. We had a had a hard time taking pictures on our crowded side but of course the guys got someone to take their photo and there was nobody but them in the photo.  Not an easy task on our side!
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• Pictures of the wall 10/1
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• Now we would be going n the tunnels to get as close to the holy place where King Herod Sr. had constructed  the church and it had been destroyed.  Now there is a sacred Muslim temple above pwhere we can not visit.  I worried I might get clausterphobic . ( this spelling program won't help me), but except for a very short place there is plenty of room, light and air conditioning.  The tunnels took us under King Herod's platform back to the place where the first church of King Solomon stood. I must remember that Muslims and Jews don't NOT believe in Jesus, they just didn't think he was the son of God, rather a prophet.  It was really cool.  Marcia didn't go, she is tall and was afraid she would spend much of her time in a painful crouched position.

Pictures of the tunnels.  oct 10/2

 

From there we circled around the backside to pick up Marcia and bus to a wonderful dinner of salads, pita, veggies, and choice of chicken or salmon.  I had salmon and Michael had chicken with a mushroom sauce and they were both delicious.  They then passed around  little cakes and cheesecakes and macaroons.  Yum!  

Another day we got home stuffed full and pooped!  This is getting to be a habit!

Until tomorrow,

 grove

 

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