June 20,  2015   Venice

We got our taxi to the airport and with an hour to spare we were at the airplane. We thought we were way ahead of the game, but our carry-ons were too large for this smaller plane so we had to back-track and check them. We were afraid we'd be charged another 60 euro but they went for free. It did make us the last to receive our luggage in Milan and Carlo and family were beginning to wonder where we were. 

When we came out Carlo said, "we are going right now to Venice and will stay overnight and show you around. Sylvia, Eduardo (Dodo), And I sat in the back and Sylvia was great at talking with me.  She does not talk in English much but she did really well and could be understood great. 

We parked the car in an overnight place and took a water taxi to their nearest oft in Venice.  After taking our suitcases (left one in the car to take back to Saliche) we came to their flat. It is just marvelous! Two bedrooms, a big living room where they have a pull-out king-size couch, a darling kitchen, and two bathrooms on the first floor. We leave the windows open and get the good Venice air.  It is quiet, but not far from a great campo (small square  with water well at the center).  Their district is San Crose (holy cross).

We followed him to a nearby restaurant they like to go to. We ate outside and I had gnocchi with Gorgonzola and an appetizer of stuffer fried zucchini flowers. Dodo had the same with a pomodora  sauce and the rest had fish or calamari. Dodo wanted panna cada for dessert but the rest wanted to go to one of the hundreds of gelato places. I was too full even for coconut gelato, but made sure I knew where the place was for another day. We needed to walk off dinner so took a maze walk down corridors, across little bridges with so much twist and turns I was totally lost. Being Saturday everyone on the island was also taking in a walk to enjoy the amazing views Venice offers. We came home and had the best sleep in a long time.

Goodnight from Venice. Even though I don't have wi-fi to send this now. That is something we will do tomorrow.  Grove 

 

June 21, 2015

Another day in beautiful Venice! I think this my new favorite city! How can I have so many?!

This morning we started at the bakery.. I'll be calling it by its real name once I get the hang of Italian. Of course, all had coffee except Dodo and I. I brought a writing pan so I could put arrows as how to get around. Oh was such a maze and leaving breadcrumbs was out of the question... brave little sparrows steal crumbs from even the pigeons! I know I'd be lost and never find the flat again unless I had my notebook with me. 

We took a long walk along the grand canal with Michael taking pictures every few feet. We rode the taxi back and past San Marco for more exploring. Being a Sunday there were no crowds until afternoon. Carlo says you have to get out early in the morning before the hoards of Japanese arrive.  There was a fantastic yacht and two cruise ships... really too bad for overpopulating Venice.

We walked for so long it was noon and Dodo was getting hungry as the muffin he'd eaten at breakfast was running thin. Carlo found us a wonderful outside restaurant where we could eat pizza and watch the gondoliers. The weather continues to amaze. On line this vacation was to have rain storms and 50 degrees or muggy 90 degree weather. Instead it has been PERFECT!

We walked back and of course I had that deliciously decadent coco gelato I'd promised myself last night. Now we are back to the flat. We have packed up a suitcase for Carlo to take back to Saliche and when I finish this Michael and I will explore some more. Know I'll be taking my notes to get home !

We explored and found a church with the nave that was built in 12th century that was having mass so we went, ...all in Italian. I think the homily was about Jesus calming the seas for the apostles, but maybe that's a stretch!

We then went to more ice cream and then guy gave me his password. I went to put it in and boom it connected. At least we can come to this campo and send my journal!

Grove

 

June 23, 2015

Another day in Antigua and loving it! We took off this morning to see the fish market as it was closed on Sunday and Monday. It is covered but open, so not as messy as others, and they display the fish in such beautiful ways; almost an art. I always give Michael a bad time about taking pictures, but in this city if I was carrying the camera we would have twice as many. It is going to be so very hard to limit them on the blog!

With a stroll through the flower market and seeing the beautiful fruits and veggies all so fresh and fragrant, we boarded the water taxi (we have unlimited travel) and took off to go to the Doge's palace.  That was such a good idea as by the time we were almost done the hoards of Japanese and Cruise Boat groups were here. When we went outside we couldn't believe it! The square that was almost empty last night was completely full! There were lines at least 300 yards long at both the church of San Marco and the bell tower. I have never seen so many tourists In one place.. even at the Eiffel Tower. Because  Venice is an island and not so spread out, one notices this more. I would never see Venice off a cruise ship. It just doesn't do it justice! I ran out in the crowd while Michael was snapping some pictures of the crowd from San Marco and we played "Find Waldo". The only reason he could find me is I'm wearing my big orange shirt I threw in at the last minute... the one I got at the Salvation Market in Chico.

My blue shoes and beige capris that Janet bought me for my birthday have been my go-to Venice unit. 

When we checked the weather on-line before we left this month's was cold and rainy everywhere, so sadly, most of the clothes I brought were  too heavy.

We have stopped at a wonderful little cafe just off one of the water taxi stops that had fabulous soupa di fungi (mushroom soup), extremely wonderful bathrooms, cold beer and cold Coke light and Wi-fi. Life could be no better!

We are going to take a short walk to see the church at Santa Maria Gloriosa de Frari! Of course it will be "Glorious" as it has priceless canvases on the walls by Titian, Bellini and Canova.

I'll write more later; my stomach is full now to fill the eyes!

Until later,   Grove

 

June 23rd later

After that wonderful lunch we walked to the church. This one is so special it requires a 3 euro ticket.. cheap! The first thing we noticed was a "no photo logo". The next thing we noticed were people in all parts of the church taking pictures as if their life depended on it. I tried to be the police but everyone kept taking pictures any way. Michael said "Heck with this I'm taking pictures too!" As he snapped photos I told him just because they were outlaws he didn't have to be one too!" Soon, I could see that no one was enforcing it, and seeing these wonderful treasures go unrecorded I said, " O.K. Go for it and I want that and that and...." I guess I can turn outlaw pretty easily!   

Evidently the heavens would get revenge as the clouds starts to unload.  Ha! Ha! We are Boy Scout outlaws who know how to be prepared! Umbrellas for two in the back pack. Then it came down so hard that the heavens laughed as we slunk our wet bodies and shoes back to the water taxi. Umbrellas, be damned!!

No sooner did we start our ride did the rain let up so our walk to the neighborhood grocery and home was clear. We are in the flat now and our damp clothes are hanging on chairs. Ironically, before we left Michael, I hung all my shirts to dry on the outside clothesline. Oh well, maybe tomorrow will be dry.  No matter, it is still great. It just may change what I wear tonight at the theatre. The poor gondoliers took over an hour to scoop all the water out of their boats and polish everything dry, and boom it's pouring again!

Michael has gone down for a nap, something we find easy to succumb to here in Venice. This has been a wonderful trip so far and we look forward to great times in Saliche with Sylvia, Carlo and the rest of the family as well as Clara's family. Brittany and Normandy have been all lush and quaint, Paris all bright and glorious, but Venice is glorious in a very different way. The place makes me feel caught in time travel of a time so long ago. I can imagine the Venetians of antiquity walking along these walks and crossing these same bridges with me.  It's that same feeling I had when I walked in Monet's garden and hung out in front of the hotel where Van Gogh rented, but now it's all the time! I know it sounds like hippie crystals and too much wine, but I feel it.. and it's not a creepy feeling either!

There are many churches here I don't think anyone visits. If they were in any city in the US there would be ticket lines a block long to enter. They all seem so glorious, but I guess it's that "seen one, you've seen them all" mentality, but then how do they keep them all up? With  Santa Maria di Gloriosa Frari charging but 3 euro, what could all the minor ones charge?  .50 euro?  Why that's the price to use the toilet most places in Europe!

Well that wraps up our day here. Next thing is the theatre, walk or ride home and more sleep.  Tomorrow will be our last day here and we are trying to get everything on the must-see list checked off. That means San Marco Cathedral early tomorrow when it opens.

Until then,   Grove

 

June 24, 2015

This morning... up early, get ready, forego coffee or breakfast and take the water taxi to San Marco square. Not crowded... small line to both the campanile and church. Michael gets in the line to see the bells and I save us a place in the church one. When he came back I hadn't moved but there was a long line behind me.  As it was, the church didn't open until later. Michael had time to stow his back pack at a place they have across form the church and swoosh we were there. 

Logos everywhere that show silence and no photo, however there were guides talking and one even taking a photo of the golden screen with his guide watching him!  Even Michael didn't take pictures in San Mark! No use pressing our luck, we know what a storm we had after last time!

The church is dark.. with gold, old paintings and beautiful mosaics everywhere. Michael spent three euro to go in the treasury there, but I didn't want to go so just sat and rested. He said he saw many beautiful chalices of rock crystal and gold but some how missed all of Marks's body, Mary's milk, and pieces of the true cross. Now do you see why I wasn't interested?

We sat in the square and people-watched and ate an ice cream.. coffee for Michael... until we were ready for lunch. Back to the taxi we went and on to S. Toma for our favorite lady, toilet, and soup. Of course I has sopa di fungi and the lady talked Michael into ordering lasagna straight from the oven. I had a bite, but still was hankering for that wonderful soup, with olive oil and balsamic and bread to dip. 

Now we are going to Campo Santa Margherita  and a museum we missed. I'll send the rest of the day when I find another wi-fi spot.

Grove

 

More June 24, 2015

This is our last night in Venice. It's bittersweet as we can look forward to time in Saliche, then France to see Katie and Fishers again before our trip home.

The church we visited was actually the Archbrotherhood of the Scuola Grande of Saint Roch. The Council of Ten, a part of the Republic of Venice in 1478. 

It is a church that was built from 1515 through 1527 and remodeled in the 18th century. This place and the church across the way are honoring Saint Roch who studied medicine,  and at the age of twenty-one left all his riches to care for the people who got the Black Plague that killed two-thirds of the Venetians. He fell sick himself but lived because a dog brought him food in the forest. 

No matter how far fetched, the artist, Tintoretto, painted 59 beautiful paintings that grace the walls and ceiling of two floors in this building. Some tell the stories of the Old Testament and some tell of the New Testament. People in those days had limited reading abilities, so the paintings served as their bible. When I get home I'll send a few of the paintings. They are quite spectacular. The story goes that Titian was his mentor but was so jealous of Tintoretto's talent that he refused to teach him. He learned from the works of other masters and although some of his paintings are in The Louvre, he had a contract with the Scuola; unlike many pieces of art that Napoleon stole off to France, these were able to be saved here.  

They were all pretty spectacular and my mind was on overload. I listened to a few good street artists sing while Michael revisited the Roch Church. Then off we went to catch the water taxi back to St. State, our closest stop. We rested awhile and dressed up a little for our last dinner down by our little bridge. That is where we ate the first night here with the Cavagnas and the ambiance is great there.  After dinner we visited with a couple from Santa Cruz. They take the train to Lago di Como tomorrow.

We got home and packed and I decided to write about our late afternoon adventure.

 Next time in Saliche   Grove

 

 

We Meet Up With Carlo, Silvia, and Edwardo In Milan 

 Hello Beautiful Venice!

 

On The Grand Canal

 

The Walk To The Apartment Takes Us Over Many Little Bridges To Look Down Small Canals 

 

 

A Canal Near Our Apartment

 

<< The Lady That Cleans The Street And Collects Our Garbage

Dodo Enjoys His Dessert At Dinner...

...While We Hold Out For Gelato.

 

 

Breakfast At The Italian Bakery

 

The Bell Tower At San Marco Square   

Carlo And Family Take Us On A Morning Tour Along The Canal With The Views Of San Marco. The Cruise Ships Haven't Emptied Their Tourists And We Are Almost Alone That Morning. Not So, Later.

Here Is San Marco Square With The Cruise Crowd. Can You Find "Waldo"?
She Is Wearing An Orange Shirt

 

 

The Big Cruise Ships Are Bad For Venice - Too Many People At Once!

 

 

 

Mascot of Venice - The Winged Lion

 

The Fish Market Is A Treat For Sights And Smells. Everything Is So Fresh And Clean And Having It In Open Air... Just A Roof... Makes It Not So Smelly As Others We Have Visited. You Have To Get There Early As It's Only Open In The Morning

13

 

 

 

 

 

 

One Of The Hundred Beautiful Churches In Venice BESIDES San Marco.